Mustagh Ata Expedition (24,757 feet)
Ref # CHMA
Highlights:
- A summit which allows one to test themself in a very high altitude (24,757 feet).- Little technical difficulty along the journey.
- Access via Bishkek and Kashgar.
- Possible ascent on skis.
- The grand plateaus of Xinjiang and the nomadic yurts.
- The aid of a second High Mountain Guide once we reach 10 participants.
| Duration: | 25 days | ||||||
| Group size: | 1 to 14 persons | ||||||
| Available Dates and Costs From: | |||||||
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Services + :
What's Included:
- Meeting/assisting at the airport
- Experienced English speaking western Mountain World Travel Professional Mountain Guide (UIAGM-IFMGA).
- Two guides once we reach 10 participants.
- Lodging in mentioned hotels, or similar, based on double occupancy
- Lodging in tents
- Full board during the entire trip (from dinner Day 1 to breakfast Day 25)
- All of the collective cooking and camping gear
- Safety equipments equipment: ropes, radios, etc
- Services of the local team (Liaison Officer, translator, cook, helpers, camel care takers)
- A first aid kit specialized for high altitude (with a hyperbaric chamber)
- All of the ground transportation transfers.
Mustag Ata, China Xinjiang region, is one of the easiest 24,000 foot peaks in the world to climb due to its gentle western slope. This expedition in the Pamir Mountain Range is a pure mountaineering adventure travel.
Asia, China Xinjiang
The Celestial Empire is more than just a country, it is a continent! From mountains to deserts, from glaciers to tropical jungle... while encountering ethnic minorities. 42 times the size of Colorado, 2237 miles from the Pacific to the Himalayas, 55 national minorities ... A new China that is open to tourism, new trekking perspectives to discover....
Trip Summary
About the Adventure
An enormous projection of rock and ice above the steppes (barren flatlands) of Xinjiang.
The relatively easy ascent does not diminish the difficulties of the high altitude conditions.
The relatively easy ascent does not diminish the difficulties of the high altitude conditions.
Itinerary
Day 1/ Arrive in Bishkek (Kirghiz Republic)
Day 2, 3/ Transfer to Naryn. Road to cross the steppes up to Torugart Pass and the Chinese border town of Kashgar.
Day 4, 5/ Karakul Lake (11,811 feet), Mustagh Ata Base Camp (14,436 feet)
Day 6 to 19/ Mustagh Ata Ascent (24,757 feet) with three altitude camps
Day 20, 21/ Return to Kashgar. Sunday Market.
Day 22, 23/ Road for Bishkek.
Day 24/ Spare day
Day 25/ Depart from Bishkek.
Day 2, 3/ Transfer to Naryn. Road to cross the steppes up to Torugart Pass and the Chinese border town of Kashgar.
Day 4, 5/ Karakul Lake (11,811 feet), Mustagh Ata Base Camp (14,436 feet)
Day 6 to 19/ Mustagh Ata Ascent (24,757 feet) with three altitude camps
Day 20, 21/ Return to Kashgar. Sunday Market.
Day 22, 23/ Road for Bishkek.
Day 24/ Spare day
Day 25/ Depart from Bishkek.
Detailed Itinerary
The Adventure
The Mustagh Ata, 24,757 feet, is located in the Xinjiang province, to the north of western China. With Kongur Shan at 25,325 feet, it majestically dominates the Taklamakan Desert. The populations that live at the foot of the mountain call the Mustagh Ata, « The Father of Glacial Peaks » and believe, according to legendary tradition, that at the summit of the mountain is hidden a beautiful garden, inhabited, in peace and harmony, by saint men dressed in all white....Back in 1891, the famous Swedish explorer, Sven Hedin, attempts the ascent without success, followed by Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman in 1947.
In 1956, a Sino-Soviet expedition is successful at the first ascent.
This mountain offers a beautiful and realitively easy access to the summit.
Since 1986, we reach the base easily from Pakistan by crossing the Indus Valley and the Hunza region, while passing over the famous Khunjerab Pass. The most direct access to this mountain is via Bishkek (the Kirghiz Republic) and via the road that joins Kashgar by way of Torugart Pass (12,303 feet).
In 1956, a Sino-Soviet expedition is successful at the first ascent.
This mountain offers a beautiful and realitively easy access to the summit.
Since 1986, we reach the base easily from Pakistan by crossing the Indus Valley and the Hunza region, while passing over the famous Khunjerab Pass. The most direct access to this mountain is via Bishkek (the Kirghiz Republic) and via the road that joins Kashgar by way of Torugart Pass (12,303 feet).
Itinerary
Day 1/ Arrival in Bishkek (Kirghiz Republic)
Meeting/assisting at Bishkek Airport. Transfer to a 3/4 star hotel.
Day 2, 3/ Bishkek - Naryn - Kashgar (China)
Morning departure to reach the city of Naryn (178 miles). The next day, road to cross the steppes of Central Asia to reach Torugart Pass (119 miles). Cross the Chinese border and road for Kashgar (68 miles).
Day 4/ On the road to Kashgar - Karakul Lake (11,811 feet)
121 miles. Camping in the Tajik yurts.
Day 5/ Karakul Lake - Mustagh Ata Base Camp (14,436 feet)
Karakul is a magical place in all regards. It is, first of all, an exceptional view point onto the immense steppes which stretch out of sight and where other 23,000 foot giants shine.
The Mustagh Ata, first off, faces the Kongur which culminates at 25, 541 feet in the middle of the Kun Lun chain. But, this is also the opportunity to discover a Chinese vacation camp, a communist system in the best tradition, yurts, paper dragons and local animations.... A lake adds to this already colorful place !
From Karakul, a short transfer (30 minutes) takes us to the meeting point with our camel drivers and our team of porters. The camels carry our equipment up to base camp (4-5 H Walk). Night at base camp.
Day 6 to 19/ Mustagh Ata Ascent (14 days)
After arrival at our base camp, it is important that we do nothing! At this altitude, we need to give our bodies time to begin their altitude acclimatization, for two days minimum. Therefore, we will take short walks around, but no athletic feats !
Then comes time to equip Camp 1 at 17,717 feet (there are local teams with donkeys who will transport our equipment up to 17,060 feet, just a bit below Camp 1).
Above Camp 1 and according to the past, the guide, the group....we install 1 or 2 superior camps.
In case of only one superior camp, it is installed at 21,300 feet and the ascent is completed as a round trip directly from this camp. We thus avoid a night in higher altitude and tedious porterage.
In case of choosing two camps, the first is always installed at around 21,300 feet and the following one near 22,966 feet. This technique permits us to split the ascent in two, but this fatigues our bodies much more so (transport and longer stay in high altitude).
Some ideas as to the schedule of our climb :
Base camp > Camp 1 = 4-6 hours
Camp 1 > Camp 2 (21,300 feet) = 7-8 hours
Camp 2 > Mustagh Ata summit (24,757 feet) = 8-9 hours
The descent is, of course, much quicker !
The ascent is managed with crampons and snow shoes, except for those who wish to carry their own back country skis (and who have a high level in this discipline).
See paragraph entitled "Itinerary Notes".
Day 20/ Base Camp - Jambulak - Kashgar
Break down base camp and return to the road (3-4 hour walk). Bus transfer (4-5 hours) to Kashgar. Night in hotel.
Day 21/ Daily Market at Kashgar
The Sunday market was, at one time, very reputable. Today, situated on the outskirts of the city, it hardly attracts much attention. It remains, however, a colorful daily market where the surrounding populations come with sheep, donkeys, horses and camels. Taste a Kebab or the Uyghur Nan bread. Night at hotel.
Day 22, 23/ Kashgar - Torugart pass - Naryn - Bishkek
We take the road for our return in direction of Bishkek. Hotel (3-4 stars).
Day 24/ Bishkek
Free « buffer » day in the event that we run late on our course. Hotel (3-4 stars).
Day 25/ Depart from Bishkek
Depending on the time of your return flight home, possible free time for you to spend in Bishkek. Transfer to the airport for your return flight home.
Meeting/assisting at Bishkek Airport. Transfer to a 3/4 star hotel.
Day 2, 3/ Bishkek - Naryn - Kashgar (China)
Morning departure to reach the city of Naryn (178 miles). The next day, road to cross the steppes of Central Asia to reach Torugart Pass (119 miles). Cross the Chinese border and road for Kashgar (68 miles).
Day 4/ On the road to Kashgar - Karakul Lake (11,811 feet)
121 miles. Camping in the Tajik yurts.
Day 5/ Karakul Lake - Mustagh Ata Base Camp (14,436 feet)
Karakul is a magical place in all regards. It is, first of all, an exceptional view point onto the immense steppes which stretch out of sight and where other 23,000 foot giants shine.
The Mustagh Ata, first off, faces the Kongur which culminates at 25, 541 feet in the middle of the Kun Lun chain. But, this is also the opportunity to discover a Chinese vacation camp, a communist system in the best tradition, yurts, paper dragons and local animations.... A lake adds to this already colorful place !
From Karakul, a short transfer (30 minutes) takes us to the meeting point with our camel drivers and our team of porters. The camels carry our equipment up to base camp (4-5 H Walk). Night at base camp.
Day 6 to 19/ Mustagh Ata Ascent (14 days)
After arrival at our base camp, it is important that we do nothing! At this altitude, we need to give our bodies time to begin their altitude acclimatization, for two days minimum. Therefore, we will take short walks around, but no athletic feats !
Then comes time to equip Camp 1 at 17,717 feet (there are local teams with donkeys who will transport our equipment up to 17,060 feet, just a bit below Camp 1).
Above Camp 1 and according to the past, the guide, the group....we install 1 or 2 superior camps.
In case of only one superior camp, it is installed at 21,300 feet and the ascent is completed as a round trip directly from this camp. We thus avoid a night in higher altitude and tedious porterage.
In case of choosing two camps, the first is always installed at around 21,300 feet and the following one near 22,966 feet. This technique permits us to split the ascent in two, but this fatigues our bodies much more so (transport and longer stay in high altitude).
Some ideas as to the schedule of our climb :
Base camp > Camp 1 = 4-6 hours
Camp 1 > Camp 2 (21,300 feet) = 7-8 hours
Camp 2 > Mustagh Ata summit (24,757 feet) = 8-9 hours
The descent is, of course, much quicker !
The ascent is managed with crampons and snow shoes, except for those who wish to carry their own back country skis (and who have a high level in this discipline).
See paragraph entitled "Itinerary Notes".
Day 20/ Base Camp - Jambulak - Kashgar
Break down base camp and return to the road (3-4 hour walk). Bus transfer (4-5 hours) to Kashgar. Night in hotel.
Day 21/ Daily Market at Kashgar
The Sunday market was, at one time, very reputable. Today, situated on the outskirts of the city, it hardly attracts much attention. It remains, however, a colorful daily market where the surrounding populations come with sheep, donkeys, horses and camels. Taste a Kebab or the Uyghur Nan bread. Night at hotel.
Day 22, 23/ Kashgar - Torugart pass - Naryn - Bishkek
We take the road for our return in direction of Bishkek. Hotel (3-4 stars).
Day 24/ Bishkek
Free « buffer » day in the event that we run late on our course. Hotel (3-4 stars).
Day 25/ Depart from Bishkek
Depending on the time of your return flight home, possible free time for you to spend in Bishkek. Transfer to the airport for your return flight home.
Itinerary Notes
Ascent without major difficulties. Average summital slopes which do not exceed 35°. The base group consists of evolving climbers with crampons and, eventually, with snow shoes. Some other members can evolve with back country skis, as a parallel team to the other main group.
Upon registration, it is important to specify the way you plan to « evolve » (crampon and/or snowshoes- crampons and skis). For those who wish to achieve this ascent on skis, a list of courses that have been carried out on skis by you in the past, has to be attached with your registration.
The main guide of the group will stay, himself, with the « pedestrian » climbers and will be in constant visual/audio contact with the skiers during their descent.
Small avalanche danger. Itinerary, difficult, if not impossible, to project, due to bad weather or fog (flag posting to mark trail mandatory).
Necessary technical skiing level: very experienced and excellent skier in all types of snow.
Reserved for athletic mountaineers and skiers with very high physical capacity and consistent training. A rapid climb in altitude (17 days to succeed at arriving above base camp situated at 14,599 feet), the cold (-4 degrees), as well as the violent wind on the ice cap's summit, make for a very large scale itinerary.
- The walking time schedules are given only as an estimate.
- For different reasons involving trip organization, daily schedules and planned altitude gains (ascent or descent) may be modified without any prior notice.
Upon registration, it is important to specify the way you plan to « evolve » (crampon and/or snowshoes- crampons and skis). For those who wish to achieve this ascent on skis, a list of courses that have been carried out on skis by you in the past, has to be attached with your registration.
The main guide of the group will stay, himself, with the « pedestrian » climbers and will be in constant visual/audio contact with the skiers during their descent.
Small avalanche danger. Itinerary, difficult, if not impossible, to project, due to bad weather or fog (flag posting to mark trail mandatory).
Necessary technical skiing level: very experienced and excellent skier in all types of snow.
Reserved for athletic mountaineers and skiers with very high physical capacity and consistent training. A rapid climb in altitude (17 days to succeed at arriving above base camp situated at 14,599 feet), the cold (-4 degrees), as well as the violent wind on the ice cap's summit, make for a very large scale itinerary.
- The walking time schedules are given only as an estimate.
- For different reasons involving trip organization, daily schedules and planned altitude gains (ascent or descent) may be modified without any prior notice.
Luggage Tips
The transport is assured by the camels up to base camp. Same for our return from base camp to Jambulak. Mules carry our belongings up to Camp 1. We ask that you only have one single bag (a large duffle bag) to be carried at the time of our approach to base camp and a protective covering for your skis.
During the ascent, each person helps out with carrying. Collective distribution, amongst our participants, of our load for setting up camps.
During the ascent, each person helps out with carrying. Collective distribution, amongst our participants, of our load for setting up camps.
Staff
The guides
Up to 9 participants: an experienced Western Mountain World Travel English speaking professional mountain guide (UIAGM-IFMGA)
Once we reach 10 participants: a second guide
Local Team
- a Liaison Officer and an interpreter
- a team of camels and camel drivers to help us to reach Base Camp. A cook and their aids at Base Camp.
Up to 9 participants: an experienced Western Mountain World Travel English speaking professional mountain guide (UIAGM-IFMGA)
Once we reach 10 participants: a second guide
Local Team
- a Liaison Officer and an interpreter
- a team of camels and camel drivers to help us to reach Base Camp. A cook and their aids at Base Camp.
Transportation
Ground transportation: private bus, with professional driver.
Lodging
In Bishkek, Kashgar and in the other cities that we cross: nights in 3-4 star hotels (based on double occupancy).
- trekking and Base Camp: nights under tents (arched dome tent, 2 people per tent). A toilet tent and a "mess tent" for meals and spending the evenings (tables and folding chairs).
- altitude camps: nights under tents (arched dome tent, 2/3 people per tent).
We choose these hotels and lodges, not only for the excellent price/quality ratio, but also for their cordiality and hospitality.
The names of accommodations (hotels, lodges, etc...) when they are indicated, are only indicative.
Depending on availability, accommodations (hotels/lodges, etc...) may be replaced by another equivalent type.
It is possible that accommodations may change without prior notice due to a number of factors.
- trekking and Base Camp: nights under tents (arched dome tent, 2 people per tent). A toilet tent and a "mess tent" for meals and spending the evenings (tables and folding chairs).
- altitude camps: nights under tents (arched dome tent, 2/3 people per tent).
We choose these hotels and lodges, not only for the excellent price/quality ratio, but also for their cordiality and hospitality.
The names of accommodations (hotels, lodges, etc...) when they are indicated, are only indicative.
Depending on availability, accommodations (hotels/lodges, etc...) may be replaced by another equivalent type.
It is possible that accommodations may change without prior notice due to a number of factors.
Food and Beverages
When in town: breakfast and evening meal taken at the restaurant.
At Base Camp: food prepared by a cook (western style, without hot pepper), accompanied by cheese, charcuterie and other delicacies.
On the mountain: freeze dried food. Well rounded and efficient trekking/expedition meals. In altitude camps, each person prepares his/her own meal.
Beverages: mineral water provided for travel and in the restaurants.
At Base Camp: food prepared by a cook (western style, without hot pepper), accompanied by cheese, charcuterie and other delicacies.
On the mountain: freeze dried food. Well rounded and efficient trekking/expedition meals. In altitude camps, each person prepares his/her own meal.
Beverages: mineral water provided for travel and in the restaurants.
Additional Information
Although we are an experienced adventure travel company doing our best to respect the itinerary schedule as presented on this detailed itinerary, there is always the possibility that we may need to modify it for different reasons beyond our control. Please read the Registration Conditions: Terms and Booking conditions - Limitations of Liability.
Important Information
What's Not Included
- International flight in/out Bishkek
- All services mentioned in Services +/extensions /options
- Personal medical & Travel Insurance
- All items not expressively mentioned in "What's included".
Extra Costs
- Airport taxes at departure from Bishkek (to date $ 25 per person)
- Drinks (except mineral water during meals at restaurant)
- Cost of foreign country entrance visa
- Personal expenses
- Tips for guides and drivers
- All items not expressively mentioned in ‘What's included".
Air Travel
As airfare is NOT included in our adventures, please check if your trip is "a guaranteed departure" before confirming your own airline travel arrangements. You can check your trip status at the website of Mountain World Travel or contact the Mountain World Travel office at 1 888-MWT-TREK (698-8735).
Our preferred airlines to fly to Bishkek:
- American Airlines, in cooperation with British Airways, flies from anywhere in the States to Bishkek, through London.
Our preferred airlines to fly to Bishkek:
- American Airlines, in cooperation with British Airways, flies from anywhere in the States to Bishkek, through London.
Foreign-Entry Requirements
Formalities for US, Canada, Australia, NZ passports travelers: a passport valid at least 6 months after the supposed return date of your journey.
Kirghiz Republic
A double entry Kirghiz Visa.
China
A single entry Visa for China.
US citizens, please check with:
Kirghiz Republic US Government Travel Entry Exit Requirements
China US Government Travel Entry Exit Requirements
For other nationalities, please contact the Kirghiz and Chinese embassies in your country.
As soon as you have signed up and registered for a trip, please send a copy of the first 4 administrative pages of your passport.
Kirghiz Republic
A double entry Kirghiz Visa.
China
A single entry Visa for China.
US citizens, please check with:
Kirghiz Republic US Government Travel Entry Exit Requirements
China US Government Travel Entry Exit Requirements
For other nationalities, please contact the Kirghiz and Chinese embassies in your country.
As soon as you have signed up and registered for a trip, please send a copy of the first 4 administrative pages of your passport.
Health and First Aid
Vaccines
No vaccine is obligatory. We advise you however, to be up date with traditional vaccinations: diphtheria, tetanus, polio, typhoid fever. Vaccination against hepatitis A and B recommended.
For more information visit the website of the US Department of Health (Kirghiz Republic) US Department of Health (China)
Dentist and doctor
Physical Examination prior to your departure is recommended.
Acclimatization and preventive treatment against altitude sickness
We conceive our routes by first taking into consideration the best means for "altitude acclimatization". However, it is preferable to consider, with your doctor, a preventive treatment against altitude sickness (Diamox) and to check your capacity to evolve in altitude (specific tests may be considered).
Please visit: http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/yellowBookCh6-AltitudeIllness.aspx
No vaccine is obligatory. We advise you however, to be up date with traditional vaccinations: diphtheria, tetanus, polio, typhoid fever. Vaccination against hepatitis A and B recommended.
For more information visit the website of the US Department of Health (Kirghiz Republic) US Department of Health (China)
Dentist and doctor
Physical Examination prior to your departure is recommended.
Acclimatization and preventive treatment against altitude sickness
We conceive our routes by first taking into consideration the best means for "altitude acclimatization". However, it is preferable to consider, with your doctor, a preventive treatment against altitude sickness (Diamox) and to check your capacity to evolve in altitude (specific tests may be considered).
Please visit: http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/yellowBookCh6-AltitudeIllness.aspx
Physical Preparation
Level 8
At least 4 months prior: Hike over 13 miles every weekend, carrying a backpack of 18 to 22 pounds and you should be engaged in another intense sports activity that develops endurance on a year round basis AND, in addition, you have implemented a third training element (of your choosing) at least 4 months prior to departure
Altitude, cold, long days.....demand an optimal physical condition for the Mustagh Ata candidate.
At least 4 months prior: Hike over 13 miles every weekend, carrying a backpack of 18 to 22 pounds and you should be engaged in another intense sports activity that develops endurance on a year round basis AND, in addition, you have implemented a third training element (of your choosing) at least 4 months prior to departure
Altitude, cold, long days.....demand an optimal physical condition for the Mustagh Ata candidate.
Equipment
All of your belongings are split between a backpack that is carried during our walk and a travel bag with a padlock, transported by the logistical team on location. We advise you to have your expedition shoes on your feet, as well as packing your small carry on bag with your heavier objects, for reasons of weight restriction. Remember: crampons and ice axe mandatory in the check-in luggage.
Shoes
Summit technical boots
- A pair of expedition boots compatible for crampons, with gaiters and over boots for winter conditions (all in one boot)
OR
- A pair of plastic expedition boots and
- A pair of gaiters for winter conditions and
- A pair of cover boots for winter conditions.
- Warm expedition socks
- A pair of down slippers
- A pair of snowshoes
Trekking boots
- Waterproof ankle hiking-trekking boots and a sole offering good traction.
- Thermal Socks
Hands
- Two pairs of thick wool or fleece mittens + two pairs of warm liner gloves
- A pair of warm/waterproof technical mountaineering Gore-Tex gloves (double lawyer of down)) or a pair of Gore-Tex over-mittens and warm under-gloves.
- A pair of replacement gloves.
Clothes
- Thermal top under wear (fast drying)
- Thermal long bottom underwear (fast drying).
- Thin thermal fleece turtle necks
- A warm fleece jacket (light weight/well insulated).
- Warm fleece pants (light weight/well insulated)
- Mountaineering waterproof/breathable jacket and pants (Gore-tex), with a hood wrapping well the head for the jacket
- A down jacket and pants.
- Trekking jacket and pants
- A ski hat and several neck and head gaiters.
- A cap or a hat to protect from the sun.
Face
- Two pairs of very good ski sunglasses with side protections.
- A ski mask for the summit.
- Maximum protection sun lotion and Chap Stick
Sleeping
- Two Sleeping bag (that will keep you warm from a temperature of 5° F to -13° F), one sleeping bag will be kept at the base camp and the other one, expedition type will be used from Camp 1 to Camp 3.
- A self-inflating mattress
- A light mattress for altitude camps
- A silk bed sheet
- A survival blanket (reinforced model).
Technical material
- A head lamp with Alcaline batteries (minimum 6) and replacement light bulb.
- A pair of telescopic walking poles (optional).
- A pair of crampons with "antibottes" (rubber plates preventing snow from balling up underfoot).
- A classical climbing ice axe (not too long and not too short).
- An adjustable, light and compact harness, adapted for walking.
- One locking and two regular carabiners, for rope maneuvers.
- Two ice screws
- 30 feet of "cordelette", 7 millimeter diameter
Pharmacy
- You own small "pharmacy" to have validated by your Doctor. It should contain: sun lotion, bandages, sterile strips and double skin, anti diarrhea medication, pain killers, an anti inflammatory, a muscle relaxant, eye lotion, cough drops, a broad spectrum antibiotic, disinfectant, tweezers, personal ear plugs, and personal drugs. And anything else indicated on the "Trip Details" page or in "Important Information" (including necessary items to treat altitude sickness).
- However, it is preferable to consider, with your doctor, a preventive treatment against altitude sickness (Diamox) and to check your capacity to evolve in altitude (specific tests may be considered).
Carrying and stowing
- You should be able to be packing all of your material in 1 or 2 solid duffle bags which can be closed by a lock.
- 1 backpack for mountain expeditions: minimum of 15 gallons.
- Big, solid trash bags for storing different items in the camps
Miscellaneous
- A Thermos bottle, 0,4 gallon
- A light water bottle (no Camelback, as tube will freeze).
- Hand and foot warmers
- A change of clothes
- A pair of replacement shoe laces
- A dop-kit and a bath towel.
- Toilet paper.
- A pocket knife and a lighter
- Some plastic bags to protect your belongings.
- Duct tape
- A small pocket anti-theft protection device, to always keep on yourself, along with your identity papers, money, certificate of insurance.
- A bathing suit
Some advice
During your flight your back pack should contain fragile and useful items that you might need while on the plane (camera, memory cards, jacket, books, magazines, medication, dop-kit etc).
For the ones who will climb on skis, you also have to bring:
Shoes
- A pair of very warm alpine ski touring boots with removable interior liners and "Vibram" type soles.
- A pair of cover boots for winter conditions.
Skiing/snowboarding technical equipment
- Two pairs of light ski touring alpine skis, or a split snowboard, equipped with adapted bindings, with well maintained ski soles.
- Wax specific to the activity (compatible with the skin's glue)
- A pair of skins ("seal skin") with a clean gluing adapted to the skis or the snowboard.
Shoes
Summit technical boots
- A pair of expedition boots compatible for crampons, with gaiters and over boots for winter conditions (all in one boot)
OR
- A pair of plastic expedition boots and
- A pair of gaiters for winter conditions and
- A pair of cover boots for winter conditions.
- Warm expedition socks
- A pair of down slippers
- A pair of snowshoes
Trekking boots
- Waterproof ankle hiking-trekking boots and a sole offering good traction.
- Thermal Socks
Hands
- Two pairs of thick wool or fleece mittens + two pairs of warm liner gloves
- A pair of warm/waterproof technical mountaineering Gore-Tex gloves (double lawyer of down)) or a pair of Gore-Tex over-mittens and warm under-gloves.
- A pair of replacement gloves.
Clothes
- Thermal top under wear (fast drying)
- Thermal long bottom underwear (fast drying).
- Thin thermal fleece turtle necks
- A warm fleece jacket (light weight/well insulated).
- Warm fleece pants (light weight/well insulated)
- Mountaineering waterproof/breathable jacket and pants (Gore-tex), with a hood wrapping well the head for the jacket
- A down jacket and pants.
- Trekking jacket and pants
- A ski hat and several neck and head gaiters.
- A cap or a hat to protect from the sun.
Face
- Two pairs of very good ski sunglasses with side protections.
- A ski mask for the summit.
- Maximum protection sun lotion and Chap Stick
Sleeping
- Two Sleeping bag (that will keep you warm from a temperature of 5° F to -13° F), one sleeping bag will be kept at the base camp and the other one, expedition type will be used from Camp 1 to Camp 3.
- A self-inflating mattress
- A light mattress for altitude camps
- A silk bed sheet
- A survival blanket (reinforced model).
Technical material
- A head lamp with Alcaline batteries (minimum 6) and replacement light bulb.
- A pair of telescopic walking poles (optional).
- A pair of crampons with "antibottes" (rubber plates preventing snow from balling up underfoot).
- A classical climbing ice axe (not too long and not too short).
- An adjustable, light and compact harness, adapted for walking.
- One locking and two regular carabiners, for rope maneuvers.
- Two ice screws
- 30 feet of "cordelette", 7 millimeter diameter
Pharmacy
- You own small "pharmacy" to have validated by your Doctor. It should contain: sun lotion, bandages, sterile strips and double skin, anti diarrhea medication, pain killers, an anti inflammatory, a muscle relaxant, eye lotion, cough drops, a broad spectrum antibiotic, disinfectant, tweezers, personal ear plugs, and personal drugs. And anything else indicated on the "Trip Details" page or in "Important Information" (including necessary items to treat altitude sickness).
- However, it is preferable to consider, with your doctor, a preventive treatment against altitude sickness (Diamox) and to check your capacity to evolve in altitude (specific tests may be considered).
Carrying and stowing
- You should be able to be packing all of your material in 1 or 2 solid duffle bags which can be closed by a lock.
- 1 backpack for mountain expeditions: minimum of 15 gallons.
- Big, solid trash bags for storing different items in the camps
Miscellaneous
- A Thermos bottle, 0,4 gallon
- A light water bottle (no Camelback, as tube will freeze).
- Hand and foot warmers
- A change of clothes
- A pair of replacement shoe laces
- A dop-kit and a bath towel.
- Toilet paper.
- A pocket knife and a lighter
- Some plastic bags to protect your belongings.
- Duct tape
- A small pocket anti-theft protection device, to always keep on yourself, along with your identity papers, money, certificate of insurance.
- A bathing suit
Some advice
During your flight your back pack should contain fragile and useful items that you might need while on the plane (camera, memory cards, jacket, books, magazines, medication, dop-kit etc).
For the ones who will climb on skis, you also have to bring:
Shoes
- A pair of very warm alpine ski touring boots with removable interior liners and "Vibram" type soles.
- A pair of cover boots for winter conditions.
Skiing/snowboarding technical equipment
- Two pairs of light ski touring alpine skis, or a split snowboard, equipped with adapted bindings, with well maintained ski soles.
- Wax specific to the activity (compatible with the skin's glue)
- A pair of skins ("seal skin") with a clean gluing adapted to the skis or the snowboard.
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