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Alpamayo - Chopicalqui Ascents

Ref # PEAC
About Peru
How to Book

Highlights:

  • The ascent of two of the most beautiful summits of the Andes cordillera.
  • The extraordinary glacier traverse of Alpamayo mountain range, exclusive!!!
  • The assistance of a second high mountain guide, UIAGM (Peruvian) starting with 6  participants, to put all chances of success on our side.
Duration:22 days
Group size:1 to 11 persons
Available Dates and Costs From:
07/06/2008 - 07/27/2008$5590Full
07/05/2009 - 07/26/2009$5990Available

Services + :

  • Arrive Sooner - Stay Longer
  • Single Supplement
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What's Included:

  • Meeting/assisting at the airport
  • Experienced English Speaking western Mountain World Travel Professional Mountain Guide (UIAGM-IFMGA), 2 guides once we reach 6 participants
  • Lodging in mentioned hotels, or similar, based on double occupancy
  • Lodging in tents
  • Full board during the entire trip (from dinner Day 1 to breakfast Day 22)
  • All of the collective cooking and camping gear
  • Safety equipment: ropes, radios, etc
  • Services of the local team (Cook, Mules Care Takers)
  • Porters for altitude camps
  • A first aid kit specialized for high altitude (with a hyperbaric chamber)
  • All of the ground transfers
  • All mentioned visits.

A breathtaking trek, then climbing Alpamayo, the most esthetic mountain on earth combined with Chopicalqui, a challenging 20,000 foot high peak mountain climbing in Peru.

South America, Peru

Peru conjures up fascinating images: inaccessible Incan citadels, sparkling turquoise mountain lakes, deserts, volcanoes and virgin forests, colorful markets, exuberant celebrations, Baroque churches. Land of the Incas and the Cordilleras. Reality is even more extraordinary...

  • Trip Summary
  • Detailed Itinerary
  • Important Information
  • Image Gallery

Trip Summary

About the Adventure

A unique traverse of the Cordillera Blanca via the high passes, with the ascent of two esthetic snow and ice pyramids: l'Alpamayo, for many, the most beautiful mountain in the world, and Chopicalqui, the famous cousin of Huascaran.

Itinerary

Day 1/ Arrival in Lima
Day 2/ Transfer to Huaraz
Day 3/ Day of acclimatization in the Cordillera Negra.
Day 4 to 9/ Trek towards Alpamayo: Cullicocha Laguna, Los Cedros valley.
Day 10, 11/ Ascent of Alpamayo (19,511feet), camping in altitude.
Day 12 to 15/ Traverse towards the Santa Cruz valley, Punta Union Pass (15,583 feet), Portachuelo de Llanganuco Pass (15,748 feet) up to the base camp.
Day 16 to 19/ Chopicalqui Ascent (20,846 feet), camping at altitude.
Day 20/ Back to Huaraz.
Day 21/ Transfer to Lima.
Day 22/ Depart from Lima.

Detailed Itinerary

The Adventure

Alpamayo (19,511 feet) and Chopicalqui (20,846 feet)
Is it possible to realize your dreams ? The two ascents offered in this exceptional program will positively answer this question. The most beautiful mountain in the world, Alpamayo, is as well the most beautiful journey crossing ridges (accessible!) of the Cordillera Blanca.
Alpamayo, a superb pyramid of snow and ice offers a steep, ethereal climb and, Chopicalqui, a long and beautiful ridge in the middle of the sky facing the most beautiful side of Huascaran and the myth-like Chacraraju.
The circuit, via Los Cedros Valley, is perfect for acclimatization purposes. It ties together the integral traverse of the Alpamayo massif with a trek up to the foot of Chopicalqui, a superb itinerary that we are the only ones to offer!

Itinerary

Day 1/  Arrival in Lima
Meeting/assisting at Lima airport.
Transfer to a 4 star hotel located in Miraflores ("chic" suburb of Lima).

Day 2/  Lima - Huaraz
Transfer towards the bus terminal, direction Huaraz.  The road follows the Pacific coast, large desert zones and frequent fog followed by our climb towards Conococha Pass (at more than 13,000 feet) where we discover the Huayhuash Cordillera.  Arrival in Huaraz.
8-10 H of driving.  Hotel.

Day 3/  Huaraz - Acclimatization day - Huaraz
Morning rise to better take advantage of our day of discovery and acclimatization.  Hiking above Huaraz by passing the Quilcay River while discovering the countryside, the Andean population and the superb panoramas onto the Cordillera Blanca and the Cordillera Negra.
4-5 H walk.  Return to our same hotel in Huaraz.

Day 4/  Huaraz - Cashapampa (9,514 feet) - Hualcayan (10,499 feet)
Ascent on the other side of the valley up to the Cashapampa Hamlet.  Meet up with our « mule team » who, in general, comes to the little village of Santa Cruz.  Begin our trek of the Cordillera Blanca.  Pass in front of the Huancarhuaz hot springs.
3 H of walking to arrive at our first camp at Hualcayan.  Pre Incan ruins.

Day 5/  Hualcayan - Huishcash (12,795 feet)
Long climb to the first pass of our circuit.   Well maintained path up to our camp site.
Install our tents at the side of a little lake :  Lake Milluacocha.
4 H walk.

Day 6/  Huishcash - Osoruri (14,764 feet)
The climb continues.... the vegetation becomes scarce and the first glacier summits draw near:  Pucaraju and Nevado Santa Cruz.  Arrive at the grandiose site of Laguna Cullicocha, a large mirror in which we see the reflections of the Nevado Santa Cruz Norte.  And then our passage of the Gallo Huacaran Pass (15, 748 feet) before arriving at our camp at Osoruri.
4 H walk.

Day 7/  Osoruri - Jatún Vientona Pass (15,420 feet) - Laguna Jancarurish (13,780 feet)

A short hour's climb up to the Jatun Vientona Pass (literally in Quechua : the pass with strong winds).  The view dives to the other side of the profound valley of « Los Cedros », an impassable valley in the lower parts.  The path crosses on the side of the mountain before a steep descent down to the bottom of the valley (13,123 feet).  We then need to follow the thalweg (a line following the lowest points of the valley).  A jewel of summits surrounds us.  Way at the end: the Alpamayo, considered  by many to be the most beautiful mountain in the world !  Camp towards Laguna Jancarurish.
6 H walk.

Day 8/  Lagune Jancarurish - Alpamayo altitude camp
Depart Lagune Jancarurish by way of the Nevado Santa Cruz Valley towards the advanced camp of Alpamayo which overhangs the chaos of ice at the foot of the northern face.  A short, easy, rocky climb leads us to camp, a superb promontory onto the glacier at the foot of the mountain.
3-4 H walk.

Day 9/  Altitude Camp - Camp 1 at 17,388 feet
Descent towards the glacier to cross the rock and earth slopes allowing us to reach the superior glacial plateau of Alpamayo at the foot of the south western face.  The itinerary takes us to the foot of Loyacjirca, 17,717 feet.
Install camp at 17,388 feet.

Day 10, 11/  Alpamayo Ascent
After hooking up our fixed cords, we « attack » the south western face.  One steep snowy slope inclined at 50° serves as our warm up.
The passage of the rimaye (crevasse at the bottom of a glacier), situated under the steep ice canals of the face, well named, can sometimes be difficult to overcome.  The second part inclined at 55° is a steady climb, in tender ice and will be equipped with fixed ropes.  Count on 8-10 H for the ascent and descent.  Night at Camp 1.  A second attempt is planned for Day 11, in case it is needed.

Day 12/  Camp 1 - Base Camp of Santa Cruz valley
Climb back up to the  pass situated at 17,717 feet between Alpamayo and Quitaraju at 19,816 feet to then descend towards the Santa Cruz Valley and the Arhuaycocha Valley where we join up with the mule care takers and a more comfortable camp.  5-6 H descent and camping in the valley.

Day 13/  Santa Cruz Base Camp - Punta Unión (15,584 feet) - Quebrada Paria (12,467 feet)
Climb to Punta Union de Santa Cruz Pass situated at the foot of the impressive granite pillars of Taulliraju.  Descend onto Quebrada Huaripampa. Camp at the confluence of Quebrada Paria.  6 ½ H walk.  
Untamed valley, some Condors glide by very high in the sky and the cowardly Vicunas flee...

Day 14/  Quebrada Paria - Colcabamba (10,827 feet) - Morococha (13,431 feet)
Easy descent onto Colcabamba Village.  Beautiful views onto the face of Chacraraju.  Climb back up the Quebrada Morococha.  Camp.  
6 ½ H walk.

Day 15/  Morococha - Portachuelo (15,748 feet) - Chopicalqui Base Camp
By following the old pathway which cuts the Yungay-Yanama trail several times, we arrive at Portachuelo de Llanganuco with it's seizing panorama (southern face of Huandoy, Chopicalqui, northern Huascaran....). Steep descent via a path which meets up with the Chopicalqui glen which we follow to base camp.
6 H walk.

Day 16 to 19/  Chopicalqui Ascent

Four days of expedition, strictly speaking.  The tactics of ascent depend, obviously, on the conditions of the glacial terrain, on the weather.....the stages are as follows :
-Base Camp - Camp 1 (camp moraine): 4 H climb.
-Camp 1 -Altitude Camp: 5 H climb.
-Altitude Camp - Return to camp moraine: 4-6 H climb, 3-4 H descent.
Traditionally, the ascent takes place in these three stages.  We will set aside an extra day to make up for possible difficulties in the event of bad weather.

Day 20/  Moraine Camp - Base Camp - Huaraz
A 2-3 hour descent brings us back to the base camp.  Dismantle camp.  Short walk to join the road where our vehicle awaits us.  Transfer to Huaraz by following the superb Llanganuco lagunas. Hotel.

Day 21/  Huaraz - Lima
Retun to Lima via bus (a high end bus line), Laguna Conococha at 13,451 feet and descent towards the Pacific coast, often foggy at this time of the year. 4 star Hotel in Lima.

Day 22/  Depart from Lima
Depending on the time of your return flight home, possible free time for you to spend in Lima.  An opportunity to discover some of the many museums, as well as the animated and colorful streets of Lima's center. Transfer to the airport for return flight home.

Itinerary Notes

- The walking time schedules are given only as an estimate.
- For different reasons involving trip organization, daily schedules and planned altitude gains (ascent or descent) may be modified without any prior notice.

Luggage Tips

During the trekking each participant walks with a light back pack, carrying only the personal items necessary for the day or half day (water bottle, camera, protective clothing, etc). Transport is ensured by the mules and the logistic team during the hikes.
For our traverse of Alpamayo and above the base camp of Chopicalqui collective distribution of all materials with the aid of our Porters (one Porter for each two participants).

Staff

The guides
- An experienced Western Mountain World Travel English speaking professional mountain guide (UIAGM-IFMGA). A second Peruvian UIAGM guide once we reach 6 participants.
Local Team
- A driver
- Mules care takers, cooks and helpers (their numbers dependent on our group's size)
- Porters for altitude camps.

Transportation

- For Lima and Huaraz, ground transportation, private air conditioned bus, with professional driver.
- Transfer Lima-Huaraz and return, very comfortable regular line bus, air conditioning, video, meals, etc.

Lodging

- 4 star hotel in Lima (2 nights).
- Hotel 4/3 stars in Huaraz (3 nights), the best available category in this small town.
- Camping (16 nights)
- trekking and base camps: 2 people per tent
- altitude camps: 3 people per tent
We choose those hotels and lodges, not only for the excellent price/quality ratio, but also for its cordiality and hospitality.
During treks in the mountains: nights under tents (mountain dome tent, 2 persons per tent), a toilet tent and a "mess tent" for meals and spending the evenings (tables and folding chairs).
The names of accommodations (hotels, lodges, etc...) when they are indicated, are only indicative.
Depending on availability, accommodations (hotels/lodges, etc...) may be replaced by another equivalent type.
It is possible that accommodations may change without prior notice due to a number of factors.

Food and Beverages

When in town: breakfast and evening meal taken at the restaurant.
During the treks: lunches are usually in the form of a hearty picnic and or cold cooked meals. The dinners are prepared by the cook. Hearty and varied, they are made from foods purchased on the spot, including the meat in the villages.
Copious snacks for trekking, cereal bars, dried fruits, biscuits, cheese are also purchased locally. In Peru, you can now find a wide assortment of products, some very similar to those found in North America (chocolate bars, cereals, etc....) We will also enjoy other products with more "local color" (eg excellent quinoa bars).
In altitude camps:
freeze dried meals.
Beverages:

- Mineral water provided for travel and in the restaurants, along with mate (tea or infusion at the end of the meal).
- During the trekking, hot drinks provided with the opportunity to fill up your water bottles in the morning. You should also take tablets to treat the water and you can replenish your water at the sources or mountain brooks. Some evenings, you will also have a chance to taste other typical Peruvian drinks (the famous Pisco sour drink, Peruvian red wine ...)!

Additional Information

Although we are an experienced adventure travel company doing our best to respect the itinerary schedule as presented on this detailed itinerary, there is always the possibility that we may need to modify it for different reasons beyond our control. Please read the Registration Conditions: Terms and Booking conditions - Limitations of Liability.

Important Information

What's Not Included

  • International flight in/out Lima
  • All services mentioned in Services +/extensions /options
  • Personal medical & Travel Insurance
  • All items not expressively mentioned in "What's included".

Extra Costs

  • Airport taxes (to date $ 34 per person) for international flights
  • Drinks (except mineral water during meals at restaurant)
  • Personal expenses
  • Tips for guides and drivers
  • All items not expressively mentioned in ‘What's included".

Air Travel

As airfare is NOT included in our adventures, please check if your trip is "a guaranteed departure" before confirming your own airline travel arrangements. You can check your trip status at the Mountain World Travel website or contact the Mountain World Travel office at 1-970-544-WALK (1-970-544-9255) or at 1 888-MWT-TREK (698-8735).

Our preferred airlines to fly to Lima:
-      Taca: flights from Chicago, Dallas, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco...
-      American Airlines: flights from anywhere in the States through Los Angeles, Miami, New York
-      Delta: flights from anywhere in the States through Atlanta
-      United: in cooperation with Lan, flights from anywhere in the States

Foreign-Entry Requirements

Formalities for US, Canada, Australia, NZ passport travelers: a valid passport; US citizens are admitted to Peru for up to 90 days.
For US Citizens, please check with   US Government Travel Entry Exit Requirements
For other nationalities, please contact the Peruvian embassy of your country.

Health and First Aid

Vaccines
No vaccine is obligatory. We advise you however, to be up date with traditional vaccinations: diphtheria, tetanus, polio, typhoid fever. Vaccination against hepatitis A and B recommended.
A treatment against Malaria is necessary as this trip is visiting Amazonia.
For more information visit the website of the US Department of Health

Dentist and doctor
Physical Examination prior to your departure is recommended.

Acclimatization and preventive treatment against altitude sickness
We conceive our routes by first taking into consideration the best means for "altitude acclimatization". However, it is preferable to consider, with your doctor, a preventive treatment against altitude sickness (Diamox) and to check your capacity to evolve in altitude (specific tests may be considered).
Please visit: http://wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/yellowBookCh6-AltitudeIllness.aspx

Physical Preparation

Level 7
At least 4 months prior:  Hike over 13 miles every weekend, carrying a backpack of 18 to 22 pounds and you should be engaged in another intense sports activity that develops endurance on a year round basis AND, in addition, you have implemented a third training element (of your choosing) at least 4 months prior to departure.

Equipment

Basic Equipment
- Thermal underwear (fast drying)
- Thin thermal fleece turtle neck
- A warm fleece jacket in fleece (light weight/well insulated).
- A mountaineering jacket and a down jacket.
- Mountaineering pants.
- Thermal long underwear.
- A ski hat and a neck gaiter.
- A cap or a hat to protect from the sun.
- Very good ski sunglasses with side protections.
- A ski mask for the summit.
- A pair of warm/waterproof technical mountaineering Gore-Tex gloves (double lawyer of down)) or a pair of Gore-Tex over-mittens and warm under-gloves.
- A pair of replacement gloves.
- A rain poncho
- A survival blanket (reinforced model).
- A water bottle (no Camelback, as tube will freeze).
- Hand and foot warmers

Shoes and technical material
- Waterproof ankle hiking boots and a sole offering good traction.
- Mountaineering shoes with rigid soles compatible for crampons.
- Thermal Socks
- A head lamp.
- Waterproof/breathable Over-pants (Gore-Tex).
- A pair of gaiters.
- A pair of telescopic walking poles (optional).
- A pair of crampons with "antibottes" (rubber plates preventing snow from balling up underfoot).
- A technical climbing ice axe.
- Mountaineering helmet.
- An adjustable, light and compact harness, adapted for walking.
- Two locking carabiners, for rope maneuvers.
- A 2 meter sling
- 6 feet of cordelette, 7 millimeter diameter
- An ascender
- A belaying device
- An ice screw.

Sleeping
- Sleeping bag (that will keep you warm from a temperature of 5° F to -13° F)
- A self-inflated mattress

Pharmacy

- You own small "pharmacy" to have validated by your Doctor. It should contain: sun lotion, bandages, sterile strips and double skin, anti diarrhea medication, pain killers, an anti inflammatory, a muscle relaxant, eye lotion, cough drops, a broad spectrum antibiotic, disinfectant, tweezers, personal ear plugs, and personal drugs. And anything else indicated on the "Trip Details" page or in "Important Information" (including necessary items to treat altitude sickness).
- However, it is preferable to consider, with your doctor, a preventive treatment against altitude sickness (Diamox) and to check your capacity to evolve in altitude (specific tests may be considered).

Luggage
- A large, robust and technical back pack equipped with broad straps, with an adjustable anatomical back reinforcement, for daily carrying.
- A soft travel bag, which can hold between 18 to 23 gallons that will be transported by the porters' team or the vehicle during the day.

Miscellaneous

- A change of clothes
- A pair of replacement shoe laces
- A dop-kit and a bath towel.
- Toilet paper.
- A pocket knife
- Some plastic bags to protect your belongings.
- Duct tape
- A small pocket anti-theft protection device, to always keep on yourself, along with your identity papers, money, certificate of insurance.
- A bathing suit

Some advice
During your flight your back pack should contain fragile and useful items that you might need while on the plane (camera, memory cards, jacket, books, magazines, medication, dop-kit etc).

- Temperatures can be icy at the top, even in the middle of the summer. Plan on bringing winter mountain equipment.

- If you wish to rent mountaineering shoes, ice axe, crampons, harness, helmet, please inform us at the time of your booking. As Mountain World Travel does not itself rent out this kind of material, we will direct you to our partner store at location (you will be offered a discount).  The confirmation that you receive after booking will specify directions to the rental shop.

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